Sunday, March 22, 2009

Sleigh ride through the elk

Wyoming is a state where a person can experience what life may have been like long before towns started springing up in the West. Obviously travel and the abundance of wildlife are two areas that have changed greatly.

While in Jackson, I was able to have one of those experiences thanks to the National Elk Refuge.

Jamie and I signed up for the National Elk Refuge sleigh ride tour at the Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitors Center. While waiting on our 10am tour, we enjoyed exploring their great educational displays and browsing the massive collection of wildlife found in the area. On display were elk, wolves, eagles, bear, sheep, coyote and several other species. In addition to learning a thing or two about the refuge we were also able to purchase souvenirs there.

At 10am, we departed the visitor center in route to the refuge. When we arrived we were welcomed by wranglers who drive the teams of horses responsible for pulling the sleighs.

Being it is now officially spring and temperatures have often exceeded the freezing point combined with the fact snowfall isn’t what we have seen in previous years, the wranglers decided it would be best if we took a wagon tour.

Nonetheless, we were excited to be able to get up close to the elk. My sister-in-law and her family were able to join us so it was a real treat to have this time together.

By 10:20am we had the wagon loaded, cameras ready and were and headed out.

In no time we were among a herd of 2,500 elk. Talk about every outdoorsman’s dream. At our fingertips were elk that would land in the record books should they be harvested. But what a beautiful way to see a 6x7 bull elk scratch its head with its hind leg. Looking at a large herd of elk with the Grand Teton Mountains in the background is a moment none of us will soon forget.

Prior to western settlement elk ranged freely from east to west in the United States. Native Americans livelihood was dependent in part to the massive number of free ranging elk. Every part of the game animal was used to sustain life. Many artifacts can be found in Wyoming museums across the state to include a pristine collection in the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, Wyoming.

In the late 1800s when settlers arrived in the Jackson area, the elk population in the Jackson valley is said to have been 25,000.

By 1912 residents knew a protected area was needed. Not only were livestock and elk competing for the same food, harsh winters and disease had taken a heavy toll on the elk population.

Today, Over 7,500 elk make their winter home on the 25,000 acre National Elk Refuge in Jackson. The elk migrate from Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park as well as nearby national forests.

Despite being largely fenced in, the elk are not contained. Due to the daily feeding that takes place elk have learned it is easier to survive the harsh winters by migrating to the refuge. The fence is simply used to help keep the elk off of the highway and out of harm’s way.

On the National Elk Refuge you can get a glimpse of what life may have been like in the old days. Transportation is still sleigh or wagon. Work here is still done using teams of horses, and elk are abundant. If you’re lucky you might even spot a wolf or bald eagle.

I’m certainly grateful that we had this opportunity but even more I’m pleased for the benefit the refuge offers future generations.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Get Along Little Doggies

In my last blog I wrote that we found the best place to eat in Jackson. Well I can now say we have discovered the best activity to experience in the Jackson Hole area. A tour with the Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours is a trip that you will never forget.

I have to admit I am not a huge dog lover. Jamie, on the other hand, is an extreme dog lover and proud dog owner. After today’s experience, I have a new-found respect for dogs especially ones that earn their keep.

At 0815 this morning we headed south of town in search of Frank Teasley, a professional dog musher for nearly 30 years, an eight-time Iditarod veteran and owner of Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours.

In route we spotted deer, elk, bighorn sheep and my favorite, the bald eagle.

When we arrived at the headquarters I was overwhelmed by the number of dogs. Over 170 dogs reside there. We were greeted warmly by both staff and dogs. When one dog sounded off to welcome us in, the other 169 followed suit.

It wasn’t long after our arrival we were able to meet the legend himself. I enjoyed getting to visit with Frank and learning a bit more about his background. He is certainly a talented and tough athlete. As a pre-teen he knew professional sled dogging was his passion. I can relate to that because at age fourteen I knew bullfighting was going to be my future.

Before leaving, he fitted Jamie and me with the proper attire for handling a 20-mile round trip to the Granite Hot Springs. The secret is dressing warm and being prepared. It was at that time Frank said, “Jeremy this is like rodeo in the winter-time!” “Well giddy up,” I replied.

Our guide was Dan. We eagerly watched as he hooked the dogs to the line and ultimately the sled. The lead sled was powered by eight Alaskan racing sled dogs. Much like marathon runners the dogs are lean, muscular, and ready to run. All of the dogs love their job. That was evident by the eager barking and forward lunging taking place as soon as they were hooked up. It was as if they were telling Dan: “Let’s go, let’s go, it’s off to work we go!”

Right before heading out, Dan informed us we would both get the opportunity to drive the team. Did I mention any previous experience with dog sledding? I didn’t think so.

Nonetheless, we started our journey with Dan in control. It would be ten miles before we would arrive at the Granite Hot Springs. The focus and intensity each of the dogs possesses is simply amazing. All of the pre-trip barking and lunging was now silence and concentration. Each dog has a role and performs their role out of loyalty to their owner. There is the lead, swing, and wheel positions. Simply put, the dogs know their respective roles and want to run much like rodeo animals want to buck. If you don’t believe me just say “Hike” and see what happens.

Equally impressive as the team of sled dogs was the wilderness we explored in the Bridger-Teton National Forest. Wildlife is abundant and the scenery is at times so beautiful it is hard to adequately describe. Within two miles of our start I spotted two moose. It happened to be a cow and her young offspring. Snow was belly high on the animals but they managed to move with ease in hopes of finding food.

The trail followed the rim of Granite Creek. At times it felt as if we were in heaven. Beautiful mountains towered above us, the smooth sound of running water was merely a few feet beneath us, the sun was shining, and the only sound outside of Mother Nature was that of the dog’s paws dancing in the snow.

The average speed of our sled was eight mph. It didn’t take too long to reach the Granite Hot Springs.

Upon our arrival there, Dan told us we could enjoy a soak while he prepared lunch. We didn’t pack for a swim so I thought I was out of luck. To my surprise, I was able to rent a pair of shorts and enjoy 30 minutes of pure relaxation.

Wyoming is home to multiple hot springs situated throughout the state. In the southern area you can soak in Saratoga. In the center of the state you can relax in Thermopolis and in the northern part of the state you can find hot springs in the Jackson area as well as Cody and Yellowstone.

Granite Hot Springs is the largest soaking spot I have ever been in. The water enters the pool from Granite Creek. It is approximately 108 degrees in the winter time. In the summer, it is slightly cooler. Yes, cooler. At its deepest, the pool is over six feet.

So there I was, relaxing in a natural hot springs with huge snow cliffs all around me. The steam rolling off the pool created a light fog that when breathed in was refreshing to my soul. I can guarantee you one thing – nobody was talking about 401Ks or the stock market.

Dan was sounding the dinner bell chimes and I had worked up an appetite so that was like music to my ears. It was a full course meal featuring steak and trout in the middle of the scenic Bridger-Teton National Forest.

When our meal was complete it was time to start the ten-mile trek home. This was the moment of truth. Dan told me to take control of my own sled dog team. That was a feeling I will always remember and rates in my top life experiences. Jamie took over at the halfway point. We both handled the sled with ease and managed to keep it upright and on the trail proving that you don’t need any experience to direct your own sled.

Who would have ever thought that I could gain so much respect for dogs in such a short time? Of course Jamie now needs more dogs so she can get her very own sled.

If you have never experienced a sled dog tour, let me highly recommend the Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours. You can request a full or half day but take my advice and reserve a full-day tour. The added bonus to that is a soak in Granite Hot Springs.

On the other hand, if you are already a fan of sled dogs or just a dog lover, let me invite you to visit Wyoming’s stage race at http://www.wyomingstagestop.org/

The International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race starts in Jackson, Wyoming and features overnight stops in seven Wyoming towns ending across the border in Park City, UT.

Perhaps Jamie will have a team put together by next year and take the gold. Regardless, we plan on making an overnight stop with the race and reporting my findings on the Blogging Bullfighter.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Friday, March 20, 2009

Spring Skiing Forecast in Jackson: Warm and Sunny

The wake-up call came at 0800 this morning and we have been nonstop ever since. I love snowboarding and was grateful for the opportunity to ski the famous Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for the first time.

We were out the door and headed for the slopes so fast that we almost forgot to eat breakfast. Our plan was to start the day by eating at the Café Terra, which is known for its wraps and bagel sandwiches, but the itch to hit the slopes prevailed and we only had time to grab a little something to eat along the way.

When I think of spring skiing all of the following come to mind: sunshine, mild winds, and warm temperatures. Well, that is what we experienced today. The temperature was in the mid 50s. The slopes were busy but not overcrowded meaning very moderate wait times for the ski lifts.


Jamie enjoys the easy slopes while I like the more challenging ones. But to ensure we experience spring skiing together, I decided to take a couple of trails with her. Wouldn’t you know it, on my first run I wiped out. I hit the deep packed snow so hard it knocked my hat and goggles off my head. My mom has always said I’m an accident waiting to happen.

From there I was on to the more difficult slopes. Despite being separate we were able to keep in touch thanks to our hand-held radios.

While sitting at 9,000+ feet, I heard Jamie call for me over the radio. It was apparent she was excited. “Holy Cow! There is a moose right here!” Turns out a cow moose had made its way onto the trail appropriately known as Moose Alley. At one point the moose was within 50 yards of Jamie and she was able to snap a couple of pictures using her camera phone. Only in Wyoming.

We enjoyed a full day of skiing and I am now tired and sore. It feels like I’ve been run over by a one-ton bull. But it was great skiing and exploring all the mountain had to offer.

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is a first-class destination. On site there are 11 lodges, 22 dining options, 5 spas, 15+ stores, multiple activities for the kids, a theater, bank and even a post office. No matter what your needs may be, they have you covered.

To top it all off, the resort opened a new aerial tram this ski season. This is the Mercedes Benz of ski lifts. The tram can accommodate 100 people per lift. Compare that to a large size gondola which can hold 8-10 people and you get a good idea of just how impressive the new addition is. Add that to the tram’s stats and you’ll want to take a ride yourself. It covers 2.4 miles in just nine minutes making a vertical rise of 4,139 feet.

For lunch, we grabbed a quick bite at the Mangy Moose restaurant and caught our breath after three hours of non-stop skiing. The décor in the Mangy Moose includes its mascot – a life-size moose connected to a sleigh. That’s one sleigh ride I don’t think I would sign up for.

It is said that you have a connection with every seventh person you have contact with. That proved to be true today as we met people from all over the world. At one point Jamie and I were on the ski lift with a woman who grew up three hours from us. Then there was the seasonal worker who called Harrisburg, PA home. If you recall from my January blog, that is where I performed during the First Frontier Circuit Finals. But perhaps the most interesting person we met today is a shop owner with whom we happen to share a mutual friend. Native American artist Joseph Sky Wolf owns and operates Sky Wolf’s Art. When you visit Jackson, be sure to stop by and enjoy an impressive collection of authentic Native American art, jewelry, and so much more created by Joseph and his family.

After spending a total seven hours at the resort we were ready to return to our Wort Hotel suite.
Tonight we had the pleasure of dining with Chad and Heather, two of the key players who have helped make our visit to Jackson possible. Heather is with the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce and Chad is the Director of Sales for the Wort Hotel.

We now have a clear winner for our best meal in Jackson thus far.

The best food in Jackson is at the Wort Hotel’s Silver Dollar Grill. We started with the elk sliders which could be described as mini gourmet elk burgers. As a main course I went with fresh trout while Jamie opted for salmon.

The menu appeals to any appetite offering steak, fish, elk and buffalo just to name a few. The setting of the restaurant is inviting to formal or informal dining, making it nice for guests who are arriving from the slopes.

And while on the topic of dining I have to tell you, the caribou mud pie rates in my Top Ten all-time best desserts. The menu describes it as follows, “Ice cream with ribbons of caramel, chocolate pieces, on an Oreo-cookie crust. Served with hot fudge, whipped cream, and Spanish peanuts.” Now tell me you aren’t in the mood for chocolate.


Before turning in for the night, we walked the famed Jackson Town Square which features four elk antler arches. Perhaps you have seen them on postcards over the years? You can’t come to Jackson without having your picture taken underneath an arch and tonight Jamie and I did just that.

We have to get plenty of rest because we are off to Granite Hot Springs at 0815 in the morning. The best part is we will be taking a Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tour. It might be possible for me to relive the old days by mushing my own team.

I’m excited. This will be our first experience with dog sledding and our guide is an eight-year Iditarod veteran.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Goin' to Jackson

Its official, Jamie and I have arrived in Jackson, Wyoming for some well needed R&R. Things have been busy for us over the past couple of months…we’ve been to the east coast rodeoing, bought a new home, and of course been busy working.

Spring break is currently taking place at the University of Wyoming and my ROTC cadets are enjoying a break from school. I pulled my duty early in the week so I could head north to Jackson to experience a complete itinerary generously put together by Wyoming Travel and Tourism, Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours, and the National Elk Refuge!

So needless to say, we are about to enjoy Wyoming!

Over the next 4 days stay tuned to the Blogging Bullfighter as I update exciting activities and first rate dinning in Jackson, Wyoming.

Jamie and I decided to drive verses fly to Jackson for our extended weekend. However, I have to say, prices for flights into the Jackson airport are very affordable no matter where your starting point may be.

On our way into town, we spotted a wolf, one moose and thousands of elk! We’ll visit the National Elk Refuge Sunday and blog about the thousands of elk who make their home on the refuge.
Our accommodations for this trip are being kindly provided by the historic Wort Hotel. It was clear the moment we arrived, guests are treated like family.

Upon entering the Wort Hotel, I noticed the warm hospitality and a grand staircase situated in the center of the lobby, highlighted by a massive stone fireplace. I have since learned the stone used to erect the massive fireplace was quarried locally by the Wort Hotel founders, John and Jess Wort in the early 1940’s. The grand staircase has a history of its own; it was spared by the horrific fires that raged through the hotel in 1980. If you look close enough you can still see charred spots on the balusters.

The Wort Brothers’ father, Charles Wort had homesteaded in Jackson back in 1893 and it was his dream to one day open a grand hotel. Charles’ dream would be fulfilled by his adventurous sons in 1941 when the Wort Hotel officially opened for business. Since that time, even Hollywood has visited to film movies which include “Shane” in 1951 featuring actor, Jean Arthur. It is said that, Mr. Arthur would make a grand entrance each morning by sliding down the staircase banister!

Before we could get settled in our room, we were invited to a meet and greet with various staff and guests of the hotel including, the director of sales and lead chef. Jamie and I enjoyed visiting and meeting various guest who have chosen to vacation in Wyoming. We met visitors from, Tennessee, New York, New Hampshire, Illinois, and even the United Kingdom just to name a few.

From there it was time for dinner. We decided to try a local favorite, the Rendezvous Bistro (located at 380 S. Broadway). Pulling into the parking lot we noticed it was full and that is always a good sign! A little background on the Rendezvous Bistro, it features a nightly special and a fabulous oyster bar. To top it off, the menu is moderately priced. The choices are limitless and cater to any appetite. It ranges from the oyster bar to steak and shrimp…and then there is duck, quail and rabbit! In addition, there is a variety of dishes that appeal to the veggie enthusiast…I almost went with the manicotti but ended up going with every cowboy’s choice; beef!

We called it an early night and returned to our room. We have a full day of skiing lined up tomorrow at the famous Jackson Hole Mountain Resort! You can rest assured I will blog about that experience. I just hope I don’t let the cowboy in me dive off a cliff that the snowboarder in me is not ready for!

But back to our room…it’s not just any room! It is one of five suites featured at the Wort Hotel. Each suite has a theme and our theme is the Cowgirl! (Every Cowboy’s favorite!) By simply looking at the entrance door I knew it was going to be special. The door is hand carved featuring a 3D cowgirl holding a saddle on her hip with the Grand Tetons in the background. It is quite the work of art.

Welcome inside…the only way to describe our suite is by simply saying, first class! A full size salon-style bar takes up an entire wall! There are marble floors, granite countertops, bronze statues, beaver blankets, hand paintings and so much more! The furniture is rustic but antique and is highlighted by vibrant colors making the Cowgirl Suite a breath-taking rendezvous.

As a matter of fact you can take a virtual tour by visiting http://www.worthotel.com/

While relaxing in our suite, I read through the book titled “Meet Me at the Wort” by Charles Craighead to get a better appreciation for the history behind our new home away from home.

I learned more about the Wort family, their hotel and the rich gaming history in Jackson. Gambling was outlawed in Wyoming in 1901 but wasn’t strictly enforced by local authorities until the 1950’s. Legend has it that gambling occurred well into the 1970’s…even taking place in the basement of the Wort Hotel to avoid the strong hand of the law.

Perhaps I should put on my cowboy hat, strap a 6-shooter to my side and ease down to the basement tonight and see if I can play a hand like the cowboys did before me!

Be sure to stop back by the Blogging Bullfighter as I continue to report experiences from Jackson, Wyoming!

Forever West,
Jeremy