Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Top Ten Yellowstone to-do List

Our Yellowstone adventure has to come to an end. We are now off to Cody, Wyoming, for the Cody Stampede PRCA Rodeo and X-treme Bull Riding competition.

In the last two years, I have spent 20-plus days inside the wonderland known as Yellowstone National Park. If I had my way, I would never leave its boundaries. This year alone I was able to experience numerous lifelong memories. In doing so, I also encountered people from 49 of the 50 states who were doing the same. Only Alaska wasn’t represented in the form of a vehicle license plate. In addition to the Americans who were in search of adventure, the international community was also represented as I visited with numerous people from every continent with the exception of Antarctica.

In my travels to Yellowstone I would offer to you my Top Ten things to do. When you have to opportunity to visit, please do. You only live once so go ahead and take that trip you’ve always dreamed of taking. And when you do, take along this list and see how many you accomplish:

10. See the sunset from Lake Hotel
9. Hike a day trail
8. Bike along the Yellowstone River
7. Walk in the Yellowstone wilderness
6. Wake up at 5am to look for wildlife











5. Stand at the brink of Upper Falls
4. Fish on Lake Yellowstone
3. Take a Xanterra tour
2. Stay at Old Faithful Inn
1. Get married in Yellowstone

Forever West,
Jeremy

Old Faithful Inn


Jamie and I have a new found appreciation for our home at Old Faithful Inn. The design and construction rival the detail found in many European structures. Although different in style, the craftsmanship is phenomenal.

I have since learned that Old Faithful Inn was constructed in a brisk 13 months - a feat that is hard to believe still to this day. The doors opened to the first guests in June 1904. The Inn originally contained 140 rooms and is known today as the “Old House.”

This magnificent creation is thanks to Robert Reamer, a 29-year-old architect. A pamphlet provided by Xanterra Parks and Resorts states: “The lodgepole pine, including twisting supports, was cut 4 miles south of the site. Five hundred tons of rhyolite rocks were quarried five miles to build the mountainous lobby chimney.”
Everything about Old Faithful Inn is jaw dropping. The lobby measures 76 feet, 6 inches. It is impossible to enter the Inn and not look up at such creation. I have watched over one thousand guests enter the Inn over the last 72 hours and all have fallen victim to the “Old Faithful Inn head-snap!”

The Inn has since been expanded. East and west wings were added to accommodate the overnight requests of tourists in 1913 and 1927 respectively. Jamie and I are in the east wing and have a direct line-of-sight to the Old Faithful geyser. Don’t sweat should you book a room on the west wing. Great viewing of the geyser is made possible by the multiple viewing decks. It is a priceless event to see Old Faithful erupt from within the Old Faithful Inn!


Speaking of Old Faithful Geyser. It erupts more frequently and more consistently than any large geyser in Yellowstone. A century-long history has shown a proven track record for Old Faithful with eruptions occurring approximately every 90 minutes. Each eruption can last anywhere from 1 ½ - 5 minutes tossing 3,700-8,400 gallons of boiling water to heights of 184 feet!

Watching Old Faithful erupt never gets old. We have seen this event firsthand over one dozen times over the past 3 days. After one eruption, I overheard a couple say that they “didn’t need to see anything else in the world because nothing could be more amazing.”

Yellowstone is amazing. There is so much in addition to Old Faithful to stand in awe of. Whether geysers, wildlife, lakes, mountains or one of the most unique lodging places in the world you can find it inside the gates of Wonderland.

Also inside the gates of Wonderland, the food rivals that of the Las Vegas casinos.
Old Faithful Inn houses a premier restaurant known simply as the Old Faithful Dinning Room. The elegance of sandblasted glass creates an illusion of light making it seem as if the sun is setting. A 100-year-old painting by Paco Young capturing Old Faithful erupting as buffalo graze demands ones attention as it hangs on the large dining room chimney.

The menu is just as impressive, from first-course to main-course meals and certainly dessert, one can find the perfect fix for any size appetite.

I found myself eating profound portions of buffalo prime rib, boiled shrimp, Alaskan salmon and lobster pasta these past few days. But perhaps the best dessert I have ever ordered was in the form of their chocolate brownie sundae. My goodness did Jamie and I overdo it attempting to eat a full meal and dessert all in one sitting.
It has been our pleasure to reside these past few days in the east wing of Old Faithful Inn. I invite you to research more this one-of-a-kind structure and hopefully our paths will cross inside the lobby as we do the “Old Faithful head-snap” together!

Forever West,
Jeremy

Friday, June 27, 2008

On to THE INN

The hours always seem to pass faster in Yellowstone. I’m not sure exactly how it happens but every day I find myself waking up early and going to bed late solely because I want to see as much of Yellowstone as I can and there just aren’t enough hours in the day.


It started early this morning when Jamie and I broke camp at Fishing Bridge and moved to Old Faithful Inn. I hated to leave behind the best campsite in the park - D128. But like most Yellowstone enthusiasts, I want to share the park with all its visitors and that means letting someone else get the chance to camp in that very spot. It’s the “corner lot” of campsites facing a forest known to house grizzly bears and wolves. During our stay this week one road was closed in the campground due to bears getting too close.

Moving to Old Faithful Inn was an opportunity we weren’t going to pass up. It is our first look inside the Inn with the exception of the gift shop. I can already tell Old Faithful Inn is my favorite lodge inside the Park. Don’t get me wrong, Lake Hotel is marvelous and the view is indescribable. However, the design and materials used building Old Faithful Inn create an illusion making it one with earth. And did I mention our room is in the direct line-of-sight of Old Faithful itself!

There will be more to come regarding Old Faithful Inn as I promise to do a little research of its history and dine in its restaurant. Please promise me this - when you visit Yellowstone spend at least one night at Old Faithful Inn.

After getting things situated, Jamie and I decided today would be a great day for a hike or two. The only obstacle we had to face was time. Time was of the essence this morning and afternoon. I previously booked a Xanterra fishing trip on Lake Yellowstone for 6pm this evening.

Nonetheless, we read a day-hike book and found a couple of trails to explore. First it was off to the Pelican Creek Trail. The hike is merely 1.3 miles but it is a great walk for bird lovers and water enthusiasts. Numerous species of waterfowl can be found on and around the Pelican Creek area to include: swans, ducks, geese and, of course, pelicans. The trailhead warns of grizzly bears in the area but today we didn’t stumble upon any. I asked Jamie what you do when you see a grizzly…her reply, “FAINT!”

We enjoyed the Pelican Creek Trail although it was short in distance and easy in difficulty level.

At 3:00pm we had just enough time to hike one more trail. The Majestic Falls Trail would be our perfect choice for a one, to two, hour hike. It starts in geyser country near the Old Faithful area. Along the Fire Hole River situated in the rear of Biscuit Basin is the trail head. Again, we were warned of grizzly activity.

The trail takes you through the boardwalk of Biscuit Basin along the path of springs and geysers such as Sapphire Pool, Jewel Geyser, and Shell Spring. Our timing was perfect both coming and going as we were able to see Jewel Geyser erupt!

The Mystic Falls Trail makes it way along the Fire Hole River and ascents for several hundred feet along some of the prettiest countryside in the park.
We were able to hear the falls roar long before we reached it. When that time arrived and we had reached our destination, I told Jamie I wanted to get as close to the falls as possible without getting wet. My plan worked out pretty well. I maneuvered my way from rock to rock and across a downed tree to a spot so close to the waterfall that I could feel its splash on my back.

It was now time to head back to Old Faithful Inn. I had just enough time to drop Jamie off, grab my daypack, and head to the Bridge Bay Marina for my fishing trip.
In my opinion, this is the best valued trip Xanterra offers. There are numerous great tours with exceptional guide service but when you’re seeking the total package look no further.

A guided fishing trip can accommodate up to six of your closest friends or family for the same price of a single. Not only that, but your guide is so well educated and prepared for the outing that you are bound to catch fish - even if you’re a rookie. The guides clean and prepare what you catch should you elect to keep it and in addition to all that, the scenery around Lake Yellowstone is second to none. I promise you, the wilderness areas that you come in contact with are some of the most remote areas in the lower 48.

My guide was Mrs. (Captain) Laura. She’s been at her job for 20-plus years and I was in great hands for catching fish. We headed out to Wolf Point Bay - an area I was able to backcountry hike in last year. It is full of grizzly bears, bald eagles and who knows what else.

So needless to say, we were at one edge of Lake Yellowstone where water meets the wild in hopes to land a big one. The lake is enormous in size and depth. Its deepest point is in the neighborhood of 450 feet and its average depth is 140 feet. Despite the summer heat, Lake Yellowstone’s temperature remains steady at approximately 45 degrees.

Capt. Laura’s first cast resulted in a bite. We were in prime fishing area and I was as excited as a Wyoming Cowboy at the Fourth of July rodeo. Soon after I had a bite and landed a nice cutthroat trout. Cutthroats are the only native species of trout in Wyoming and it is against regulations to keep them. It was my first catch in Yellowstone and I had to throw it back! But that’s ok, there is now no record of how big or small it was. So it’s my story and I’ll tell it how I want to. It was 30 inches and so big that when I printed the picture of me holding it, the picture weighed at least six pounds! Just kidding. It was a nice sized trout topping the scales at three pounds.

Thanks to Mrs. Laura for helping me land my first Yellowstone fish. So far, I’ve caught a rainbow, brown and now cutthroat trout, all in the greatest state in the USA…Wyoming!

Forever West,
Jeremy

Yellowstone Activities

Lake Yellowstone is arguably the prettiest feature in Yellowstone. It offers beautiful mountain scenery, access to wilderness areas, fishing, boating and so much more.

Xanterra Parks and Resorts operates in Yellowstone as well as numerous other national parks. Where it is the National Park Service’s job to regulate the park, Xanterra’s mission is to create recreational opportunities within the park.

Today, I thought about taking a cruise on Lake Yellowstone in hopes for catching a few cutthroat trout; however, I’m going to save that for possibly Friday’s outing. To get my fishing fix I hiked into the wilderness area along the Lake. It was only a two mile hike but the sign of grizzly bear was quite obvious. I was the only drifter on this trek and trust me, the mind can run away from you while you’re seeing fresh sign of grizzlies! The good news is I didn’t see one but I did jump a Mule Deer…pretty cool.

The two hours I spent fishing were certainly peaceful…but not productive! I’m going to try my luck at fishing a few more times before leaving the park and I will catch a fish even if I have to use my bare hands!

Xanterra provides a host of activities including: guided fishing trips, horseback riding, stage coach excursions, vehicle tours and of course the famous Yellowstone yellow bus tours.



Jamie and I were able to be a part of the Xanterra tour known as the Lamar Valley Wildlife Excursion. It’s a 5 hour tour through the vast Lamar Valley. Lamar Valley is the perfect habitat for bears, wolves, elk, bison, pronghorns, eagles and bighorn sheep. Even though we were lucky enough to see all of those yesterday, it was nice for me since I didn’t have to drive!

Our driver/tour guide was Kelly from New York state…the same guide we had this winter aboard the Xanterra snow coach. Although it was a 5 hour trip, she made it entertaining and informative. Kudos to Kelly for a job well done. Along our route we were thrilled to see two black bear, several bighorn sheep, tons of buffalo, antelope, mule deer and even a coyote. Our hopes for spotting a wolf in Lamar Valley didn’t pan out but that’s ok since we saw a grey wolf yesterday! O yea… the scenery was breath-taking. Overlooking Mount Washburn was a double rainbow that seemed to burst from the earth below and had no end in sight.

Many times during my trips to Yellowstone I feel that I can’t adequately describe the sights I am seeing. That’s why if I could grant one wish to each human being, it would be that they too visit Wyoming’s Yellowstone National Park. Today was yet another one of those days when I saw sights so glorious that they will forever be etched in my memory.

I would highly recommend a Xanterra Tour. There are numerous trips to choose from, ranging in various locations and duration. Plus, I promise your guide will be a wealth of Yellowstone knowledge.

To learn more about the exciting tours provided by Xanterra check out www.travelyellowstone.com

All the R&R I’m able to catch this week is needed. My knee is still sore from the hit it took at the recent College National Finals Rodeo. Being in Yellowstone has a way of taking your mind off the stresses of everyday and I really like that. I’ll be headed to the Cody Stampede fully recharged when I leave Yellowstone.
Cody, the “Rodeo Capitol of the World” is home to a nightly rodeo which runs all summer long. However, for five days in July Cody plays host to one of the nations best professional rodeos, the Cody Stampede. In addition, for the second consecutive year it will be the home of a PRCA Xtreme Bull tour stop known as the Cody/Yellowstone Xtreme Bull event.

Be sure to visit www.codystampede.com for ticket information and check your local ESPN listing for air dates. I hope to see you there.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Thursday, June 26, 2008

O What a Day!

Yellowstone is a must see for every living human being. There is something for everyone here. I love seeing the wildlife and yet also the peaceful scenery. I love the waterfalls but also the stillness of the lakes. I love Hayden Valley and yet also the enormous mountain ranges…and then there is the Yellowstone Grand Canyon. The bottom line is I love Yellowstone.

Today I wanted to show Jamie a glimpse of some of my favorite places in the Park. Although it is impossible to do this in one day I wanted to give it my best shot. The ultimate goal was to reach Mammoth Hot Springs. We headed north from Fishing Bridge for a stop at Upper Falls. Last year I discovered one can stand at the brink of Upper Falls and I have since been fascinated with that location. The water is roaring so fast that even a daredevil like me wouldn’t dare touch it and then in the blink of an eye the earth falls out from under the river creating Upper Falls…water then splashes hundreds of feet in the air after meeting back up with the river some three hundred feet below. It is amazing.



From Upper Falls it was back on the road again…but not for long. The wildlife was out in force today and merely five miles from the falls, we spotted two nice bull elk in velvet. One of which was a 5x5, the other a respectable 4x4. We loaded up with digital photos as they grazed and moseyed around. A mile down the road, still in Hayden Valley, we joined a group of tourist watching a wolf from a distance. Buffalo were out in full force but the wolf seemed to be content feeding on a previous kill.

Our next wildlife treat was in the form of a black bear! Just shy of Tower Falls this black bear was taking it easy feeding in the meadow. A park ranger was on hand to corral over zealous tourist…that didn’t include Jamie and I. I have learned my lesson when it comes to a bear…that’s another story but they get my respect! We really enjoyed watching it from a distance though. Later we were able to see two more black bears!

The wildlife was on the move today and our timing couldn’t have been better. It was elk, bear, a wolf, more bear and then as we stood at the overlook facing Tower Falls, we were able to see a beautiful bald eagle and two little ones in their nest which towered over the falls. Just as we snapped the first picture, it was bye-bye for the eagle. I asked Jamie, “How would you feel if you were one of those babies and it came time for Momma Eagle to push you out of the nest?”

Along the route to Mammoth Falls via Tower-Roosevelt loop situates a 50 million year old Petrified Tree! History tells of three petrified trees where the lone tree stands today. However, eager visitors in search of the perfect souvenir destroyed the other two trees and in the early 1900’s a fence was placed around the remaining tree. After all, the March 1, 1872 Act of Congress was put into place to preserve and protect the area and for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.

It was only fifty three miles by the odometer to reach our destination. However, due to the enjoyment of seeing the natural wonders and various species of wildlife it took us over three hours to accomplish our mission.

Jamie had never been in Montana and although technically part of Mammoth is located in Montana, we decided to visit Gardiner. We grabbed a quick bite at the Two Bit Salon and back into the park we headed.

The kid in me caused me to scare Jamie once again but I talked her into climbing the North Gate entrance arch for a photo opportunity! It was my first time to the North entrance. I’ve now entered Yellowstone via the North, East and South entrances.
No sooner than 1 mile into the Park we spotted two Big Horn sheep: one Ram and one Ewe. What I would give to have balance like the Big Horn sheep. We watched in awe as they climbed up and down a rock cliff. The Ram even dared to come down to the Yellowstone River to quench his thirst. At that point we were only twenty yards from him!

It was back to Mammoth Hot Springs for a tour around the boardwalk. But before we arrived, we crossed the 45th Parallel of Latitude and I had to stop. The 45th Parallel is the halfway point between the Equator and North Poll.

Back to Mammoth Hot Springs…along the boardwalk, tourists are dumbfounded by the thermal activities such as Devils Thumb, Living Color and Liberty Cap. It is here that heat-loving microorganisms known as “thermophiles” live. Billions of thermophiles create an ever changing sculptures ranging from what appears to resemble stair steps, cones, hills and valleys.

What a day it was today! All calculated we drove 102 miles and were able to see over one dozen species of animals including elk, black bear, a wolf, coyote, bald eagle, antelope, otter, muskrat, Big Horn sheep, mule deer, swans and our Wyoming’s flag symbol, the buffalo!

Where else can you do that!

Forever West,
Jeremy

Entering Yellowstone

As alluded to previously, our “Big Day” - aka marriage ceremony - will be taking place in Yellowstone on 28 June. By law, one must have a marriage license to officially be married. Since we won’t be back to Cody until the Cody Stampede and Xtreme Bulls (July 1-5) we thought it would be wise to visit the Park County Courthouse for the license. It’s almost official now. We just need the preacher to sign the dotted line. From there it was on to Accent Florist in Cody to pick our flowers. I think we’re going to really like the selection. We went with our two favorites: lilies and tulips.

We were only in Yellowstone for one minute when Jamie realized why it is my favorite place in the world. Standing in a shallow stream merely yards from the East Entrance Jamie spotted a nice size bull moose with his “fiancĂ©.” This is the first time that I have seen a bull in the wild. My goodness, the size of these animals make bucking broncs look small.

A quick stop at Fishing Bridge Campground to unhook the trailer and we were back on the road again to explore more sights.

Since time was of the essence, we opted for a shorter trip out to Hayden Valley and then back to Lake Yellowstone before returning to Fishing Bridge.

Our wedding is scheduled to take place in Hayden Valley but there are so many beautiful locations here that we may move the special spot several times prior to the 28th.

We stopped by to stand next to LeHardy Rapids and feel the energy created by the nonstop action of the Yellowstone River. We noticed several trout hanging out in the calmer pools of water located just feet above the rapids. It was neat to see so many fish that close. Although I am now 31 years old, I am still a kid at heart. There is not too much I won’t do for a little excitement. I couldn’t take seeing so many fish within reach so I eased my way down to the edge of the river and tried to catch one with my bare hands. It didn’t work out too well but, trust me, before this trip is over I will be catching fish. Most likely with bait though.

From there it was on to Hayden Valley. The buffalo were out in full force. Even though I have seen bigger herds in the valley, we were able to get up close and personal with several. But we did keep our distance when we spotted a black bear. Yep, we saw a bear, buffalo, elk, trout, swans, geese, and ducks all within the first 20 minutes of leaving our camper. O wait, did I forget to mention a grizzly???

I really wanted to take Jamie to see Lake Yellowstone prior to sunset. I knew we also had a good chance of seeing more bears along the route. The bears weren’t in the spot I had in mind but we did see a griz with her two cubs grazing within sight of the Lake Hotel. Park Rangers were on hand and yes, they did have to tell us to back up. I promise we were being careful. My camera just sometimes needs a little help with the zoom.

More Yellowstone Adventures

Jamie and I headed west for Old Faithful hoping to see a lot of geyser and thermal activity. Old Faithful is a must for all Yellowstone visitors. Not only is it impressive in size, it is the most predicable geyser in the park. Give or take 10 minutes, Old Faithful erupts every 90 minutes.

Just as we pulled into the parking lot Old Faithful was starting to boil over. We made it to the seating area just in time to see it shoot water hundreds of feet into the air.

We took the long way around via the wooden walkway to explore the various geysers and thermal hot spots in the Old Faithful area. Super hot springs such as Heart Springs and Crested Pool are easily viewed from the walkway. The clearness of the water in such areas is hard to describe. It appears to be crystal clear for several feet and then it takes on a beautiful blue tint.

Making our way around the boardwalk we passed Beehive Geyser. It’s the most powerful geyser in the park but due to its unpredictability not all visitors get to witness the splendor. Our timing wasn’t on queue with it today and we had to keep walking. We did however get to see a few rare geysers erupt making the long route worth our while.

While on our journey today we also found yet another ideal location for our wedding. We really liked Gulf Point Bay as it features a more secluded section on Lake Yellowstone with a beautiful background of snow-capped mountains. We liked it so much we called the Park Service and had our outdoor wedding permit changed. So if you are planning on surprising, be sure to come to the new location.

I won’t spoil the wedding photos by posting the shots we took today but I promise they won’t disappoint. Plus, my good friend and photographer Cody Brinton (www.thewayeyeseeit.com) will be on hand to take our wedding pictures making my work look even more amateur.

After leaving Gulf Point, we headed to Kepler Cascades to witness the massive waterfall that seems to never end. I promise you, from the lookout point you can’t see its end! The water is so powerful that even at 200 yards away one can still feel a good breeze created by its thrust.

I have to sign off now because I’d like to get a little fishing in before dark. I’m headed to the backside of the Fishing Bridge Ranger Station to fish off the bank. Yesterday, one lucky lady caught a 22-inch cutthroat trout from that very spot.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Yellowstone or Bust!

Chris LeDoux’s song “Photo Finish” starts out:

“At seven this morning I got on the phone and said to hold my bronc as long as you can….”

Well my day was pretty similar yesterday. At seven in the morning I got on the phone and asked my good friend from the Cody Stampede committee, Tim Mahieu, if we could park our camper at his place in Cody, Wyoming.

Our “Big Day” is getting near, June 28th to be exact, and we are on our way to Hayden Valley. Before we drive into Yellowstone we need to take care of a few last minute details in Cody…flowers, etc.

Jamie and I decided to take our time getting into town and enjoy some of the sights along the way. Believe it or not, I’ve been through Thermopolis, Wyoming, multiple times but have never stopped to see the natural, mineral hot springs. Today I made it a point to stop. Thermopolis is home to the world’s largest natural hot springs. It is a must see. The Best Western and Holiday Inn are located in the park so it makes for a very convenient layover.

We shared a long walk taking in all the sights and natural wonders at the park. Be sure to bring a swimsuit and have a soak.

After leaving Thermopolis it was off to the Wind River Canyon - another amazing Wyoming sight. The Wind River Canyon area is perhaps one of the most scenic stretches of highway in Wyoming. It features mile-high cliffs, tunnels, never ending rapids, outstanding fly fishing and so much more. Although we didn’t have all day, we did make time for a short walk along the river. Several species of butterflies in various sizes and colors were prominent along the river today - small, medium and large ranging in colors from yellow to black and even some purple.

It was back to the truck and time to put the white lines beside us in search of Cody.
We made it to Tim’s just in time for supper! On the menu was Wyoming raised Buffalo. My o my, I bet I ate a 25oz of buffalo steak all by myself.

The plan is to be in Yellowstone National Park by 2pm today. I’ll be camping at Fishing Bridge several nights before moving into Old Faithful Inn. I hope you stay close to your computer and follow our trip through the most beautiful place on earth!

Forever West,
Jeremy