Mission Accomplished (4 Mar 2008)

There is so much to do in Yellowstone that is it simply impossible to see it all. Our time as come to leave the Wonderland and I’ve still yet to see Old Faithful erupt. The fact is Snow Lodge is merely 200 yards away from the famous geyser and I did promise Jamie we would see it

This morning, prior to packing, we bundled up and walked the short distance hoping that our timing would be on cue with Old Faithful. Unfortunately for us, we missed seeing the eruption. Nonetheless, it is a spectacle to see as Old Faithful never ceases to stop steaming.

Breakfast was on the fly since we had to catch the Xanterra Snow Coach at 0830. We managed to arrive back at Flagg Ranch in two hours. The snowfall over the past four days could be best measured in feet.

From Flagg Ranch we headed south and then east in hopes of reaching the historic Plains Hotel in Cheyenne by 8pm. However, Mother Nature had different plans and we fought to stay on the roads in blizzard-like conditions.

We made it to Dubois, Wyoming, and saw and advertisement for the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center. Our interest was peeked by the fact we had seen many sheep on this trip. It was a nice break from driving and a great learning opportunity. Be sure to check out www.bighorn.org to learn additional information.

I really enjoyed being able to see the different species of sheep which included those from Iran, Afghanistan and various other countries. Not only were the mounts impressive visitors are able to actually feel the horns and make tracks.

We didn’t stop too many times after Dubois in order to try and beat the storm which was headed to Cheyenne. A stop in Casper for food, and another in Wheatland for fuel, was it until we reach the Plains Hotel at 9:00pm. What a welcomed stop!

We both collapsed shortly after checking in. I had to be back at work at 7:00am and Jamie had to get to Denver, Colorado, to catch her flight back to Arkansas.

What a great week.

Forever West,

Jeremy

Serenity Now! (3 March 2008)

I had a great idea last night…Jamie and I could snowshoe for the better part of a day and then get massages.

Well some ideas are even better when thought out. However, that is the part we failed to do…think through a day of snowshoeing. Thanks to Steve and other Xanterra Parks & Resorts employees we were able to pull it off.

Yesterday we spent the day with several other Yellowstone enthusiasts and thought today would be a great day to explore a little of the park alone. Tip: if you want to be alone in the park, try snowshoeing!

When we started to get organized for our trip we found we didn’t have one very necessary piece of equipment - a backpack. That’s where Steve came to the rescue by allowing us to take his personal day-pack. We can’t thank him enough.

After getting the day-pack filled with food, water, and a little gear we headed out to the Lone Star Geyser and trailhead. It is 2 miles from Snow Lodge to the trailhead, 2.5 miles to the geyser, and then you get to do it all over again just the way you came for a grand total of 8-9 miles.

This is a great way to peacefully explore the park, workout, and learn a lot about your significant other.

We didn’t see any wildlife but the scenery was breathtaking.

Lone Star Geyser is one of the top three geysers in the park when talking size of explosion. It erupts every 3 hours and we happened to walk upon it just as it was erupting. Talk about making a walk of 4.5 miles in huge snowshoes pounding down 3 feet snow worth it!

The wind picked up a little and we headed into the forest to find a place of solitude and eat a well deserved lunch. Being the romantic I am, I had a chef prepare us a lovely meal. Only down side to that story is they couldn’t find us! Just kidding…but a chef did prepare our meal. We just happened to bring it out in Steve’s day-pack. It was a meal we won’t soon forget. It was cold, the snow was deep, we were tired, hungry and honestly thinking we had taken on a project perhaps too large. Nonetheless, we made a picnic and became one with nature in below-freezing temperatures.

We did encounter 4 or 5 cross-country skiers but never did we see anyone using snowshoes. At this point we decided we were the only geniuses in the park. To make our efforts even more intelligent, when we arrived back at the trailhead we took the “service road” (which came highly recommended) in order to cut a little distance off our return. Instead, we found ourselves in the backcountry, farther than we had been previously.We were so far in there were no marked trails, no previous sign of people or animal tracks.

This great idea not only increased the time and distance of our journey it also added the element of stress because we didn’t know exactly where we were. I won’t say we were lost because we weren’t, but we did find ourselves in unknown territory.

We made it back to the lodge after a day of hard work. It was worth it in the end. Much like running a triathlon is gratifying once you cross the finish line.

It was exactly 1500 when we returned and my massage was to be at 1530.

Man alive was I ever ready to see a massage therapist. My whole body hurt and I was in need!
Jeff, the Xanterra massage therapist, earned his money today. After telling him why I was so drained he was surprised to learn that we took on that challenge. He claimed it might be a record for snowshoeing Yellowstone this winter. Certainly the longest trek he had heard of to date. Maybe next time we will ski. Nah, who wants to take the easy way out.

I always seem to make recommendations on the blog. So for today’s recommendation: try snowshoeing. Not necessarily 9 miles of it! But get out and about and enjoy the serenity of winter in Yellowstone. And by all means, visit Jeff at the Xanterra massage spa.

Jamie and I leave Yellowstone tomorrow in route for the historic Plains Hotel in Cheyenne, but we will be back. I promise. Matter of fact look for us to return to Yellowstone in late June just after the College National Finals in Casper and prior to the Cody Stampede.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Start Your Engine! (2 March 2008)

It was another early morning. But then again, you don’t come to Yellowstone to sleep.
Thanks to Xanterra, Jamie and I were treated to a guided snowmobile tour. It’s the Canyon Tour should you visit Yellowstone in the winter. The Canyon Tour travels the main loop roads allowing you to see a large part of the park that is open in the winter months.

We were up at 0600, had breakfast at 0645 and were on our machine at 0745. Our guide was Jason from Montana. He was pretty good about letting us have fun as long as I wasn’t a danger to others or breaking the speed limit.

Right out of the gate we played “chicken” with a dozen buffalo. They were walking right at us with a blatant disregard of our presence. It was pretty neat. I promise we could have touched more than one if we made even the slightest of effort. And yes, I did think about it.

I have so many “favorite” spots in the park and the Canyon Tour afforded us the opportunity to see several of them to include: Upper & Lower Falls, Hayden Valley, Fire Hole River, Yellowstone Grand Canyon, Lake Yellowstone, Dragon’s Mouth and several others.

It was a nine hour adventure and worth every second. In addition to the buffalo we were able to see fox, coyote, swans and elk. The sights in the winter are simply amazing. It is hard to believe the amount of snowfall here. It is well over ten-feet-deep in places.

Since motorized traffic must stay on groomed roads the snow is as pure today as the day it fell from the heavens.

When we arrived at Upper Falls the snow was every bit of ten-feet-deep. I couldn’t contain myself. I had to fall in and make a snow angel! Yes it was cold but the most impressive snow angel ever. I couldn’t talk Jamie into following my lead on that one. I paid for it, though. It took all day for my clothes to dry out and I don’t think they every really did.

A nice thing about taking a guided snowmobile tour with Xanterra is the fact they outfit you with everything you need. All you need to do is show up.

We couldn’t have picked a better day to explore the park. We had a little early morning fog but that was it. It was a beautiful clear day with the temperature reaching 20 degrees.
In my opinion, when God created the earth He started with Yellowstone.

Forever West,
Jeremy

Never Enough Time! (1 March 2008)

At 0500 Jamie and I got up in order to meet Cody for our tour of Jackson. I’m used to early mornings thanks to Uncle Sam, but they are never too much fun. However, when you know you are getting up to see the sunrise over the Grand Tetons it makes it a lot easier!

We met Cody at the National Museum of Wildlife Art and headed north in search of Moose Junction to park and wait for a spectacle that everyone must experience. It was an experience that will not be forgotten. To see the sun highlight Middle Teton followed by Teewinot Mountain and ultimately the Grand Teton is simply priceless.

From there we headed into the Bridger-Teton National Forest in hopes to see wildlife. Jamie, not being used to all the wide-open country that Wyoming offers, can be known to suffer from motion sickness. Remember me saying we stopped a lot on the way to Jackson? Well today proved to be another challenge for her. However, she was a trooper. We were able to see bighorn sheep, coyotes, swans and even some very fresh wolf tracks. At this point, motion sickness got the best of Jamie and we took her back to the museum parking lot so she could rest in our vehicle and recuperate prior to us catching the Xanterra Snow Coach in route to Yellowstone.

Cody and I went on the back side of the National Elk Refuge in hopes of seeing even more wildlife. What a great decision! Not to leave Jamie - to look for more wildlife. I assure you I was within 20 steps of bighorn sheep! I was taking pictures like crazy. There were two sheep on a rock ledge and I was clicking away in hopes to catch one in midair coming off of it.

From a distance we saw nice herds of buffalo and elk. Jamie started texting me saying the herd of 8,600 elk was feeding near Hwy 191 and she was watching them through a spotting scope set up at the museum. Cody and I weren’t far from there when was saw five trumpeter swans.

Using the binoculars (that we bought last night) I saw a massive amount of elk. All around them were 30 or more coyotes and even a pack of wolves which included two black leaders. Jamie was seeing the same thing Cody and I did just from a different location. At once, we looked up and saw a pack of wolves stalking this lone, sickly elk. It was predator vs. prey at work in a way that few people can say they have witnessed firsthand. What are the odds that Jamie and I would both be able to see this since we weren’t together? That was amazing. The wolves waited and watched the elk, choosing just the right moment to attack and all at once they moved in…unreal.

We both would have loved to stay and watch more of nature’s greatest moments but we had to get to our snow coach so we could reach the Wonderland of all Wonderlands…Yellowstone National Park.

Using four-wheel drive we managed to get from Moose Junction to Flagg Ranch with 30 minutes to spare. It was “white-out” conditions in places. Certainly white knuckle moments as we eased our way closer at massive speeds reaching 20mph!

Slowly but surely we arrived at Flagg Ranch where there had to be seven feet of snow on the ground. I can’t wait to clean my truck when we return on Tuesday. Flagg Ranch to Snow Lodge is only 40 miles away. It doesn’t sound far but when you are in a snow coach traveling safely along the way it can take perhaps three hours including stops for wildlife and photo opportunities at places like the Continental Divide, West Thumb of Lake Yellowstone, and various waterfalls along the way.

Speaking of the West Thumb. There is little geyser activity. I mean none. However, Black Pool is located there and is quiet interesting. Black Pool is the home to numerous organisms which take on various shapes, sizes and colors often creating an image that is hard to describe. While viewing the sights associated with Black Pool, I, Jeremy Sparks, saw a geyser erupting! I pointed it out to our snow coach driver, Will and to Jamie. We watched it shoot water up to ten feet high.

As we talked, Will said this was very odd as there are no active geysers in the West Thumb area. We discussed it with the on duty park ranger and learned that this is a so rare that the geyser I spotted isn’t even named due to the fact that there is no record of it actually erupting. So I have an idea for Yellowstone. Call the unnamed geyser, “Sparks Geyser!” Great idea…I know.
Just goes to show, every visit to Yellowstone you will discover something for the first time.

Forever West,

Jeremy

Let the Good Times Begin (29 Feb 08)

My fiancé Jamie and I are on the first leg of our winter ’08 Yellowstone adventure. Last night (28 Feb) we stayed at the historic Plains Hotel in Cheyenne in hopes of resting up for what I know will be a week full of exciting travels. The Plains provided just that. A first-rate stay in a truly historic structure. The view was from our fourth floor “King Suite” directly facing the recently renovated Cheyenne Train Depot. It was perfect!
Let me make a suggestion. Visit the Plains Hotel. The history, service, and amenities will not disappoint!

We checked out of the Plains at 0930 and headed north to Jackson Hole. I must tell you we stopped at every exit between Cheyenne and Casper (188 miles). Jamie wasn’t feeling the best so we took our time getting to Jackson.
I’ve always been fascinated with a little destination in Wyoming known as “Hell’s Half Acre.” I made sure Jamie and I stopped for a photo of what I consider a natural wonder of the world. It’s where Hollywood filmmakers chose to shoot a lot of the movie “Starship Troopers.” The sight, located between Casper and Shoshoni, was amazing but due to the high winds and the fact we wanted to see the Grand Tetons at sunset we couldn’t stay very long.

At Dubois, Wyoming, Jamie spotted several bighorn sheep. We pulled over to get a better look and that’s when we found out we failed to pack the binoculars. I have a feeling this won’t be the last thing we forgot to pack. All toll in Dubois, we saw nine bighorn sheep.

Despite several planned and unplanned stops along the way, our timing was perfect. We arrived at the Grand Tetons just prior to sunset. The roads were plowed for travel but the pull-offs…not so much. But thanks to four-wheel drive we managed to pull onto the shoulder a good bit and watch the day end. After soaking in the sunset I figured out why they are known as the Grand Tetons versus just the Tetons. Fact is they are GRAND.

I called a good friend and Jackson resident, Cody Brinton, asking his recommendation for local sightseeing. He said the National Elk Refuge is a must. We had just enough light to see a herd of elk feeding near the road. The size of the herd was unreal. After counting, we figured it was 8,600 head. Okay, maybe we didn’t count them but we were told by managers the herd on the refuge was in fact 8,600! Can you even picture that? If you don’t believe me I can’t blame you. Do me a favor, visit the National Elk Refuge and see it firsthand.

Well, tomorrow Cody Brinton is going to take us on a VIP tour of Jackson, Grand Teton National Park and the refuge. He claims watching the sunrise over the Grand Tetons is as spectacular as seeing the sunset. We can’t wait! O yeah, and we have to be at Flagg Ranch to catch the Xanterra Snow Coach into Yellowstone at 1230.

Forever West
Jeremy